OBJECTIVES
Upon completion of this lesson you will be able to:
- Define forcible entry and its need.
- Describe the forcible entry tools and their general safety while handling.
- Describe the types of doors and their forcible entry methods.
- Describe the types of windows and their forcible entry methods.
- Describe the safely breaching of walls and floors.
1. Forcible Entry:
- Method to gain access when normal means of entry cannot be used.
- Requires strength, knowledge, proper techniques, and skill.
- Use amount of force appropriate to situation.
- Arrange to secure the opening before leaving the scene.
1.1 Forcible Entry Situation:
- Required at emergency incidents where time is a critical factor:
- Affect a rescue.
- Control a fire before it extends.
- Incident commander selects:
- Point of entry
- Method to be used
- “Try before you pry!”
2. Forcible Entry Tools:
Firefighters must know:
- What tools are available?
- Uses and limitations of each tool?
- How to select the right tool?
- How to operate each tool?
- How to carry each tool?
- How to inspect and maintain each tool?
2.1 General Tool Safety:
- Incorrect use or improper maintenance can be dangerous.
- Always wear proper PPE.
- Use the right tool for the job.
- Keep tools clean and serviced.
- Take broken tools out of service for repair.
- Keep tools in proper area or container.
2.1.1 General Carrying Tips:
- Request assistance for heavy tools.
- Use your legs to lift heavy tools.
- Keep sharp edges and points away from your body.
- Cover them with a gloved hand.
- Carry long tools pointing down.
- Be aware of overhead wires.
2.1.2 General Maintenance Tips:
- All tools should be in a ready state.
- Tools must be in working order, in their storage place, and ready for use.
- Tools require regular maintenance and cleaning to ensure readiness.
- Perform required checks regularly.
- Follow manufacturer’s guidelines and instructions.
- Keep proper records of maintenance, repairs, and warranty work performed.
2.2 Types Of Forcible Entry Tools:
- Striking Tools.
- Prying/Spreading Tools.
- Cutting Tools.
- Lock/Specialty Tools.
2.2.1 Striking Tools:
- Used to generate an impact force directly on an object or another tool.
- Head usually made of hardened steel, such as: Sledge hammer
2.2.2 SledgeHammer:
- Sometimes called mauls.
- Come in various weights and sizes.
- Head of hammer can weigh from 2 to 20 pounds.
- Handle may be short like a carpenter’s hammer or long like an axe handle.
- Can be used alone to break down a door or with other striking tools.
2.2.3 Prying Tools:
Such as:
- Pry bar/Hux bar/Crow bar.
- Fireman hook.
2.2.3.1 Pry Bar:
- Made from hardened steel in a variety of shapes and sizes.
- Commonly used to force doors and windows, remove nails, or separate building materials.
- Various shapes allow fire fighters to exert different amounts of leverage in diverse situations.
2.2.4 Fireman Hook:
- Made from hardened steel in a variety of shapes and sizes.
- Commonly used to force doors and windows, remove nails, or separate building materials.
- Mostly used for Starvation.
- Its handle made of wood.
2.2.5 Cutting Tools:
- Primarily used for cutting doors, roofs, walls, and floors.
- Hand operated.
- Such as: Fireman Axe, Bolt cutters.
2.2.5.1 Fireman Axe:
- Many types of axes.
- Cutting edge of axe used to break into plaster and wood walls, roofs, and doors.
- Flat-head.
- Pick-head.
- Pry axe.
- Multipurpose axes.
2.2.5.2 Bolt Cutter:
- Used to cut metal components such as bolts, padlocks, chains, and chain-link fences.
- Available in several different sizes.
- The longer the handle, the greater the cutting forces.
- May not be able to cut into some heavy-duty padlocks made of case-hardened metal.
3 Doors:
- Basic Door Construction:
- Door.
- Jamb.
- Hardware.
- Locking device.
- Construction Material:
- Wood, Metal, Glass.
3.1 Types Of Doors:
- Inward-opening.
- Outward-opening.
- Sliding doors.
- Revolving doors.
- Overhead doors.
Hinges indicate if door has inward or outward opening.
- Outward:
- Hinges are visible.
- Inward:
- Hinges are not visible.
3.1.1 Inward Opening Doors:
Design:
- Made of wood, steel, or glass.
- Have an exterior frame with a stop or rabbet.
- Locking mechanisms range from standard doorknob locks to deadbolt locks or sliding latches.
Forcing Entry:
- Determine what type of frame the door has.
- Use a prying tool near the locking mechanism.
- Use a striking tool to force the prying tool further into the door frame.
3.1.2 Outward Opening Doors:
Design:
- Used in commercial occupancies and for most exits.
- Designed for a quick exit.
- Made of wood, metal, or glass.
- Usually have exposed hinges.
Forcing entry:
- Check to see if hinges can be disassembled or hinge pins removed.
- Place the end of prying tool into the door frame.
- Use striking tool.
- Leverage the tool to force the door outward.
3.1.3 Sliding Doors:
Design:
- Made of tempered glass in a wood or metal frame.
- Have two sections and a double track.
- A weak latch on the frame of the door secures the movable side.
Forcing Entry:
- Check whether a security rod is in the door track.
- If present, try another door.
- If not present, use a pry bar to lever the door away from the locking mechanism.
- If necessary, break the glass.
3.1.4 Revolving Doors:
Design:
- Made of four glass panels with metal frames.
- Designed to collapse outward when pushed backward.
- Usually surrounded by outward-swinging doors.
Forcing Entry:
- Should be avoided whenever possible.
- Opening will not be large enough to allow many people to exit.
- Can be done by attacking the locking mechanism directly or by breaking the glass.
3.1.5 Overhead Doors:
Design:
- Can roll up or tilt.
- Made of wood or metal.
- May be hollow-core or solid-core.
Forcing Entry:
- Break out the panel or window and manually operate lock from within.
- Security roll-up door.
- Cut triangle-shape entry.
4 Windows:
- Usually easier to force than doors.
- Frames made of wood, metal, vinyl.
- Glass is the easiest way to force a window, but also the most dangerous.
Safety:
- Wear PPE with face and eye protection.
- Clear area for personnel.
- Coordinate with fire attack to prevent flare-ups and back drafts.
4.1 Frame Design:
- Double-Hung Window.
- Single-Hung Window.
- Jalousie Window.
- Awning Window.
- Horizontal-Sliding Window.
- Casement Window.
- Projected Window.
4.1.1 Double-Hung Window:
Design:
- Two sashes move up and down and are commonly used in residences.
- One center lock or one on either side.
Forcing Entry:
- Break locking mechanism to enter forcibly.
- Place a prying tool under the lower sash and force it up.
- May be cheaper and easier to break glass.
4.1.2 Single Hung Window:
Design:
- Upper sash is fixed—only lower sash moves.
- Locking mechanism is the same.
- May be difficult to distinguish between single-hung and double-hung from the exterior.
Forcing Entry:
- Use the same technique as forced entry through a double-hung window.
- Breaking glass and opening the window is generally easier.
4.1.3 Jalousie Window:
- Adjustable, overlapping sections of tempered glass.
- Operated by hand crank and difficult to force.
- Avoid if possible Cracked windows.
4.1.4 Awning Window:
- Like jalousie, but only one or two panels.
- Break the lower panel and operate the crank.
- Break out panels.
- May be easier to force than jalousie due to larger panel size.
4.1.5 Horizontal Sliding Window:
- Similar to sliding doors.
- Rods and poles are placed to prevent break-ins.
- Force in the same manner as sliding doors.
- Attempt to locate another window if a security rod is present.
4.1.6 Casement Window:
- Steel or wood-frame windows.
- Similar to jalousie or awning windows.
- Should be avoided because they are difficult to open.
- To force, break glass, unlock, and open manually.
4.1.7 Projected Window:
- Also called factory windows.
- Avoid forcing entry.
- To force entry, break a pane, unlock, and open the window manually.
- If the opening is not large enough, break out the entire assembly.
5 Breaching Walls and Floors:
- Breach only as a last resort.
- First consider if the wall is load-bearing:
- Could cause collapse if breached.
- Non-bearing walls can be removed safely.
5.1 Exterior Walls:
- Can be constructed of one or more materials (e.g., wood, brick, aluminum siding, masonry block, concrete, or metal).
- Attempting to breach is a difficult decision; masonry, metal, and brick are hard materials.
- Breaking through can be very difficult.
- Best tools to use are:
- Sledgehammer.
- Rotary saw with a concrete blade.
5.1.1 Interior Walls:
- Constructed of wood or metal studs covered by plaster, gypsum, or sheetrock in residences.
- Commercial buildings may have concrete block interior walls.
- Breaching an interior wall can be dangerous.
- Locate a stud away from electrical outlets and switches.
- Make a small hole to check for obstructions.
- If the area is clear, expand to reveal studs.
5.2 Floors:
- Most floors are wood or poured concrete.
- Both can be difficult to breach.
- This is truly a last resort.
- Use a rotary saw with an appropriate blade.
5.3 Forcible Entry and Salvage:
- Try to keep damage to a minimum.
- Secure structure before leaving.
- Replace locks or board up entry point.
- Ensure guard is on-site or request additional police patrols.
Summary:
- “Try before you pry.”
- Use the minimum amount of force necessary to gain access.
- Knowledge of building construction is essential for successful forcible entry.
- Use proper PPE.
- Use and carry tools safely.
Emma Lee, an expert in fire safety with years of firefighting and Rescuer experience, writes to educate on arescuer.com, sharing life-saving tips and insights.